POSTCARD FROM TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO

Tropical Field Biology: a new course at the University of Arkansas - Fort Smith

What is the best way to introduce biology students to the wonders of birding in tropical America without overwhelming them with the diversity? Ideally, find an island very close to the mainland with key representative habitats and bird families, but with less numbers of species. Ensure the logistics are conducive, avoid strenuous hikes and provide ready access to good food and drinks. Choose an English-speaking and politically stable country with knowledgeable local guides to make it easier and safer for American students.

Sounds like a tall order? Not really. Those conditions fit Trinidad and Tobago, a delightful little island nation, just 10 kms from Venezuela. That's exactly why I chose this as the venue for my new Tropical Field Biology course. At just 1916 sq. miles (4904 sq. kms - about the size of Goa), it has the most number of bird species per unit area for any country in the world (234 species per 1000 sq. miles, compared with about one species for the same area in India). That means you don't have to travel a lot to find new birds - perfect for the novice.

Ten students and I were pampered for a week (May 2009) at the world famous Asa Wright Nature Center (AWNC), a set of rustic cabins around a British-era bungalow nestled in the lush Arima Valley of Trinidad. From the legendary veranda oft-mentioned in birding websites, we were treated to a panoramic view of the verdant tropical forest-clad valley which slopes away into the horizon. Neotropical specials like toucans, tanagers, antbirds, oropendolas, bananaquits, honeycreepers, motmots and euphonias abound in the valley. Many of them ventured within arms' reach of the visitors at the veranda, where they are attracted by an abundance of bird food and baths. Indeed, if there is the perfect place to start your forays into the new world tropics, this is it.

For ease of birding, no place in my experience compares to AWNC. You relax in the comforts of the veranda (where food, libations and sofas abound) and make a huge dent in your species-to-see list. Or enjoy the antics of the dozen or so species of hummingbirds ranging from tiny coquettes with stunning colors and crests, to large jacobins and hermits that zoom in and out as blurs constantly harrying each other with territorial zeal. In the afternoons when the frenzy of bird activity wanes, you interact with the apparently omniscient local guides who are always at hand. Or scan the skies above the valley for white hawks and swallow-tailed kites or any of the myriads of other raptor species that ride the thermals. And there is always an agouti (a large rodent) or a tiger lizard (a Varanus-like monitor) to break any monotony.

Each day at the crack of dawn, AWNC staff loads the bird feeders copiously with bread, fruit, and nectar. This regular feeding, coupled with the plethora of bird attracting flora in the vicinity of the veranda means that the period between 6 and 7 am can yield over 50 bird species spread over a gamut of bird families, all enjoyed over steaming cups of fresh-brewed locally grown and ground coffee.

One of the highlights of the week was the hike to a nearby riparian grotto to see the only nocturnal fruit eating bird in the world, the oilbird. These birds are also known for their echolocation abilities that enable them maneuver through dark caves where they roost and nest. Also, in one of the immaculately maintained trails that crisscross the property, we were treated to the extraordinary sight of two species of manakins displaying at their leks. So fixed are these leks that they are indicated by big, informative, and permanently rooted banner boards, and wooden fences keep visitors in the trails. The bearded bellbird (a cotinga) site too was similarly posted. And guides led us to see a broken stump on a dead tree, which upon close inspection morphed into a potoo, a nightjar-like master of camouflage and deception ("I see the stump, Dr. Kannan, but where is the bird?!"). One gets the feeling of being in a zoo, and we constantly had to remind ourselves that the birds are purely wild denizens of the area!

In our quest to cover as many habitats as possible, we spent one evening boating in the mangrove swamps near Port of Spain (the capital) and saw hundreds of scarlet ibises – the national emblem of Trinidad which is proudly featured in their flag, currency notes, and coins. These gaudy birds derive their hues from a crustacean they consume in prodigious quantities. Many a zoo in the past has realized the hard way that the colors fade when they are not given that particular shrimp to eat. Apart from hordes of other mangrove and coastal specialties like bicolored conebills and black-crested antshrikes, we were also blessed by sights of Cook's tree boas and silky anteaters, both coiled and asleep amongst mangrove branches as our boat glided below.

The grand finale was our night adventure on a remote forested beach where we witnessed the ancient ritual of leatherback sea turtles coming ashore to nest. We saw four massive females crawl out of the ocean, prepare their nests and lay up to 80 eggs, bury them and then return to sea leaving tracks more than six feet wide in the sand. The sight of these half-ton creatures emerging from the water in the darkness was awesome. Students were able to walk up to them and make observations. Naturalists from Nature Seekers, a local NGO that has done commendable work on conserving these giants, served as guides. They stapled and tagged their flippers and injected electronic chips in the shoulder muscles to track them. Two of the females were returns, having nested earlier that season (with their remarkable sperm storage ability, they could nest up to five times in one season, with each clutch sired by different males). Coincidentally, Nature Seekers' work was featured in that month's (May 2009) National Geographic. The article was an invaluable teaching tool in one of our readings and discussions in the veranda.

Students returned to the USA after getting to know the major bird families of the Neotropics and an overall feel for tropical nature, without the sense of being flooded with too much information. Above all, their curiosities have been piqued. Some of them are planning to return to Trinidad for their post graduate research. At least one of them appears to be hooked to bird photography and another is taking daring tentative steps towards taxonomic botany. The Tropical Field Biology course is off to a good start.

Dr. Ragupathy Kannan

This student program was designed by the expert staff at Caligo Ventures. If you would like a similar program for your students, Audubon chapter, or other group, please follow this link to take a look at their exciting inclusive tour programs at the Asa Wright Nature Centre and throughout Trinidad & Tobago.

GO HERE ---->

CREDIT: All Photos by Doug Leasure.

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